Beans: A Holiday Tradition through the Centuries

Turkeys and trimmings will grace tables throughout the holiday season, and it all starts at Thanksgiving. However, the first Thanksgiving menu looked a little different than what we eat today. Before sweet potato casserole and macaroni and cheese, the first “harvest celebration” in 1621 that we recognize as Thanksgiving today likely included corn, squash, venison, and beans.

The common bean, along with maize and squash, was first described by European explorers as early as 1492. Christopher Columbus and his crew noted the diversity of the beans the indigenous people of the Caribbean were cultivating. Though lentils and broad beans were part of the European and Eastern diets prior to exploration of the Americas, the introduction of the South American bean varieties in the mid-16th century made their way into British traditions. In fact, the traditional medieval Twelfth Night Cake, made to celebrate the twelfth day of Christmas, featured a dry bean. When slices of cake were distributed to guests, the diner who received the piece that included the dry bean was crowned the king or queen of the celebration. Today, as many as two-thirds of the European varieties have genetic origins in the Andes of South America.

Dry beans were a primary food in the Americas since they were first domesticated more than 9,000 years ago in Central and South America. Through complex trade routes and trading centers, bean varieties and their cultivation practices spread. The common bean was cultivated and consumed in North America for hundreds of years before European contact. Though not much has changed about the bean, the cultivation methods have evolved over time.

Though most bush beans were monocropped, climbing beans were planted together with corn in the Mexican Lowlands approximately 6,000 years ago. These ancient culinary staples, along with members of the Cucurbitaceae family (which includes gourd, squash and pumpkin), were cultivated together in a system known as the Three Sisters.

Each plant in this system supports the others. Corn serves as a trellis for the beans to climb. The beans add nitrogen to the soil and help anchor the corn in inclement weather. The squash shields the soil from heat, encourages soil moisture retention, and suppresses weeds.

The origin of this cropping system is unknown, but archaeological evidence shows at least fifteen nations adopted the practice in the northeastern United States and Southeastern Canada as early as 1070 AD. There are potentially 23 varieties of beans that could have been used in the Three Sisters complex, and some of those varieties are still grown in the Northarvest region today, like navy, red, white kidney and cranberry beans.

These three crops together provided Indigenous nations with a diet high in fiber, protein, and a variety of vitamins and minerals such as calcium, magnesium, and iron. This intercropping system yielded two to four times more energy and protein per acre than monocultures of beans and pumpkin, supporting the energy needs for 13 people/hectare and protein needs for 15 people/hectare annually.

Corn, beans, and squash were enjoyed fresh and dried, and they were cooked and served together and separately. Beans were often boiled whole and enjoyed in soups and stews; however, they could be coarsely ground, added to cornbread, and even fried.

The cultural significance of these three plants goes beyond nutrition. Indigenous nations would tell stories about the world around them, and the Three Sisters are no different. In the Iroquois Legend, the Three Sisters sprouted as a gift from the grave of the Sky Mother’s daughter. The Mohawk legend tells the story of three very different sisters who loved and supported each other. These stories about the Three Sisters and others like them remind us that our community abundantly feasts in harmony when we bring our different strengths together.

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If you want to bring in the harmony of these plants and celebrate Indigenous wisdom this holiday season, try this Three Sisters Salad.